afpr install

[Muggus]

Im trying to install my aeromotive fpr and im having trouble finind a spot on the firewall to mount it. Are there any existing holes i can use or do i need to drill and tap 2 holes? Thanks

[gtluke]

sometimes i put them on the shock tower.
they are a bitch to mount

[Muggus]

I was looking at some pics in the dsmtuners gallery for ideas and i saw a couple people have it mounted just below and to the left of the dsm sticker. That spot would be perfect but i can figure out how they did it. The spot doesnt even seem flat enough to make 2 holes.

[Muggus]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=60807&password=0&sort=2&cat=500&page=1

[91tsiguy]

I used sheetmetal screws and those little bushings that can be found in the rubber mounts for the seat belt tracks.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/b/t/b ... stall1.jpg (http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/b/t/btb139/images/mycar/aeromotiveafprinstall1.jpg)
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/b/t/b ... stall2.jpg (http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/b/t/btb139/images/mycar/aeromotiveafprinstall2.jpg)

[gtluke]

there is way too much shit strapped to the firewall on a dsm

[Muggus]

Oh thanks alot Brent, that was a big help. I should have something to use as spacers and sheet metal screws are obviosly easier then drill and tap. Thanks

[Muggus]

Another question too, im not really too familiar with AN fittings. Should leave a little tape on the end when i squeeze the SS line into the red piece. What is good to cut that line also, dremel? Someone told me a hacksaw works fine.

[atc250r]

VERY fine hacksaw blade and go very slow with it.

John

[gtluke]

good hacksaw. dremel will fare out the ends.
i sometimes leave some tape at the end. very little though. sometimes what i do is leave some tape, push it into the end, and then wind the tape out while its in the fitting before tightening anything.
its a bitch. expect bloody fingers.

[91tsiguy]

I always take the tape off and use a little flat screwdriver to push in any strands that start to flare out while pushing it together. After the hose is inside the one AN piece, mark it with a sharpie so you know whether or not it is pushed out on accident while assembling the rest of the piece.

[gtluke]

yeah, they do tend to push out sometimes when you screw them together. watch for that.
use some wd40 on the inside of the hose to help.

[Muggus]

Thanks for your help guys, iv heard it was a pain in the ass so i figured i would ask for some tricks to help.

[quasimondo]

Fuck that, zip-tie it to the wiring harness that goes across the firewall.

[Muggus]

Ooo thats tempting, i do love my zipties. But i think im not gonna ghetto rig this time.

[Muggus]

Teflon tape shouldnt really be used anywhere except maybe the gauge right?

[atc250r]

Actually teflon paste is recommended over tape for fuel system stuff but nothing should be used on the AN fittings themselves.

John

[Muggus]

Yeah i figured that cause they have either o-rings or compression fitting, i just noticed the gauge plug having the tape on it already so that why i figured. Wasnt sure if the gas would just eat through it. But the flat connections with the o-rings shouldnt need it right?

[Muggus]

Brent how does yours clear the hood, i just mounted mine about the same height as your if not lower and it wont clear. Does your cf hood not have the piece the hits it, maybe ill just notch it a little so the top screw just goes partly inside the hood.

[Muggus]

Nm, i just notched the hood a little bit.

[91tsiguy]

Never noticed a problem with the hood clearance, but then again the CF hood I had didn't have much of a frame to it either. Jim of JM Fab has his mounted in roughly the same spot but ended up bending the bracket 90* so it would rest on top of the little edge on the firewall below the "dsm" sticker.

[Muggus]

Yeah the mounting came out fine, just those stupid AN fittings. I gave up after a little while, ill try again tomorow. Once i took the tape off and tried getting it in it started flareing and went down hill from there. Then after messed with it forever i realized i was using the wrong half of the hose that was cut and it was way too long. For some reason my gauge wont screw in too far either, does that matter too much? It seems like it should go in just about all the way but like the afpr threads are coated with something and there real tough. Its definitly in farther then the plug was so it should be fine.

[91tsiguy]

The gauge threads are 1/8" npt, so they're tapered and supposed to do that. If you're local to DS I'd say swing by and I can show you how easy the ss line can be to put together.

[Muggus]

I wish i was local, the dam ss braides are flaring to much. Even if i leave a little tape on there i still cant manage to get the dam thing in there. Maybe ill take a trip up there thursday. Are those tpm rotors that you guys sell any good? I think i might pick up a pair if i go up there? In stock? Thanks

[Muggus]

Finally have everything installed. Stupid AN fitting wook a while but i got them. Now for adjustment, i need to set the base pressure with the vacume off right? Whats a good setting, like 40ish? Oh and does the vacume line still go through that piece mounted on the firewall or is it s straight line form the manifold? Thanks

[Muggus]

Can anyone help me out here? I just want to make sure im doing it right even though im pretty sure i am. I have it set to about 40 with the vacume off and then it drops to about 30. For some reason i had it set to like 37 and then today it was more around 30. I hope my pump isnt dying. The car ran fine after the install and then the next day it would start and stall. Then today, the day after it ran fine all the way to work. Then trying to leave work it did the same shit, after feathering the thottlw for a while it started idleing right again but still ran like shit and kept bucking all the way home. Its either a fuel problem or vpc wiring problem.

[91tsiguy]

Set the base timing with the vacuum hose off and plugged. I normally set it about 43psi. Once it's plugged back in, the vacuum will drop the pressure.

If still connected to the fpr solenoid, it will have a higher base pressure until up to temp where then the solenoid opens up letting vacuum to the fpr.

[Muggus]

So then it doesnt matter if its run through the solenoid? Man this car is pissing me off, i think the pump might be dying on me or something. Cause the pressure seems lower every time i start the car. Also i was trying to log it today and the pump made a very strange noise and started running like shit. Then fine again a few minutes. The car sputters like crazy and just drives like complete shit with no power. If i keep my foot on the gas just slightly the power will come back for a half a second and jerk the car and go away and wont idle. Its been doing this for a while now. But then the car will run fine for a while. Keeps changing. Also when i turn the car off i can hear the suction noise right by the fuel rail that sounds like a bath tub when the water finished draining, but still holds the fuel pressure.

[atc250r]

Bypass the solenoid if you haven't already. I think Brent was a little out of it when he said "Set the base timing with the vacuum hose off and plugged."

John

[91tsiguy]

Derrr.. I meant base fuel pressure. Drinking started a little early last night. :)

[iboostdoyou]

Derrr.. I meant base fuel pressure. Drinking started a little early last night. :)

drunken tech advice??? great :roll:

[Muggus]

Yeah i knew what you meant. Is there any way to test if a fuel pump is dying. Im gonna do the rewire today and see if it helps at all, if the fuel pressure keeps dropping then i guess ill have to replace it.

[MikeL]

Yeah i knew what you meant. Is there any way to test if a fuel pump is dying. Im gonna do the rewire today and see if it helps at all, if the fuel pressure keeps dropping then i guess ill have to replace it.

you can pressurize the FPR while at idle, or with just the pump on if you have that option, and at least see if it's will make pressure, doesn't really help with a flow problem though.

[Muggus]

Yeah i usually use my palm to pressurize the fuel lines, but i cant really see whats going on while the car is moving. Either the car has some major fuel problem or my vpc wiring somehow got screwed up. Im probably gonna try hardwiring it next to eliminate the harness. It was just wierd the sounds that came from the pump that one night. My afc settings are probably all screwed up also. If there anyone who has a laptop that can help me tune the car that would be great, i have a wideband installed but no laptop to log with yet.

[91tsiguy]

A nice little tool I made for a customers car consisted of the banjo fitting in the B&M fuel pressure gauge kits, 1/8th npt to -4 fitting, 3ft of -4 oil feed line, 1/8th npt to -4 90* fitting, 1/8th npt coupler (female to female), and then the fuel pressure gauge.

Once all hooked up, we attached it to the wiper and were able to watch fuel pressure while out tuning/diagnosing a lean condition in the upper RPM of this person's car. Worked out nice.