How would you build a head?

[blcknspo0ln]

If anyone knows my situation, my head needs rebuilding. I'm debating on getting FP2x, BC280, or DKS3 cams. Next season I'll be looking to run 24-26 psi on 93 octane with injection/DSMLink and I'd like to rev to 8k. I'll be running a BB5031 turbo.

Any suggestions with building a head that will let me do so? I'm also not looking to make over 450 awhp.

I'm thinking a full head rebuild, new stock size (should I go 1mm over? is the cost vs. benefit worth it?) valves, and a stiffer spring. Also should I get dual springs?

I'm a complete noob when it comes to selecting this, so help a brotha out! Also, budget will be around 3-500 for rebuild excluding cost of cams.

Also, where is there a good machine shop?

[BigT]

including cams, 3g lifters, SS valves, bronze guides, springs/retainers i went well over a G. Dont forget headgasket and ARP's if you dont have already. Then the cost of machine work on top of every other gasket you'll need, both manifolds, cam & valve seals, yada yada....

I went with BC 272's, BC springs & titanium retainers, & ferrea valves. Cant wait to have it all put together. :twisted:

[97gsxminus1bolt]

Stock valves and springs are fine just get some 3g lifters and guides.

[atc250r]

Forget the guides IMHO. I've done several by just pulling all the valves, cleaning the ports thoroughly with carb cleaner, replacing the valve stem seals, and reassembling the head. All of them have stopped smoking when that was done and have run tens of thousands of miles like that. If you want to do a proper rebuild you don't need anything fancy in the head to make 450whp, a stocker with cams will do but if you are rebuilding it anyway I'd get a set of Ferrea's, new valve seals, 3G lifters, and have it tanked so its clean. If you need a good guy to do it for you PM me and I'll put you in touch with my friend that did mine. Mine is definitly overkill for my power level but I got a great deal on the valve springs and retainers plus the port work was free.

John

[gtluke]

completely stock rebuilt.
i've seen nate and bean go faster than you or me will ever go on a completely stock head, nate even doing so on stock cams.
fuck headwork, its a waste of money on a turbo car unless you are completely out of other mods you can do.
you want another 20hp? turn up the boost 1psi.

[Nate Crisman]

completely stock rebuilt.
i've seen nate and bean go faster than you or me will ever go on a completely stock head, nate even doing so on stock cams.
fuck headwork, its a waste of money on a turbo car unless you are completely out of other mods you can do.
you want another 20hp? turn up the boost 1psi.

I ran stock valvesprings and valves last year too. 9500rpm no trouble on comp 200 cams. Agree'd fuck headwork.

IMHO rebuild it stock with a new set of lifters and that is all youll ever need.

[blcknspo0ln]

I guess you guys aren't scared of valve float :lol: The more I look into it the more I can see that stock valves probably will do the job, but for my piece of mind I'll probably be going with springs/retainers.

Juan was telling my supertech was good for the price, anything else out there?

[97gsxminus1bolt]

You wont have valve float at 8k.

[atc250r]

8500rpm 1-2 shifts all the time when I was running stock valve springs. They never floated.

John

[JessGST]

I run BC280's with Manley springs and retainers (of course, I'm biased towards them since I work forh them lol).

But Brian Crower says that springs and retainers are required for running his 280s.

[blcknspo0ln]

Sweet. Are you running just springs/retainers on an otherwise stock head?

[JessGST]

Sweet. Are you running just springs/retainers on an otherwise stock head?

Springs, retainers, valve locks and .5mm oversized valves. Everything else is stock.

[billios996]

Portwork without the oversize valves is pointless.

Are you running the 2g head?

[blcknspo0ln]

Yes I am. Taking what nate and luke said into account, along with jess and others; I think I will be sticking with a pretty much freshened up head with just springs/retainers along with BC272 cams. My goals for the new AWD is not much more than high 11's and I think that the bigger valves and port work are overkill.

[billios996]

I think everybody that chimed in before was running a 1g head.

Either way, take the money you're saving from porting and put it towards a JM Fab/Magnus intake to maximize port velocity.

[blcknspo0ln]

Agreed. a JMF or Magnus will be installed along with my new head (with whatever the hell I decide).

[BigT]

i'm personally getting a JMfab. Much better reviews than the magnus and he's pretty close to us.

[Bean]

Go with the JM fab intake. I've had both the JM and the Magnus and I like the JM a lot better. It holds the hp/torque a little better over 7500rpm. I used to rev my car to 8500rpm on the stock valves/springs/retainers. I did this for a few years and over 250+ passes. I was constantly sitting on the rev limiter in first gear. I would probably hit the limiter 2 or 3 times before shifting to 2nd gear. I ran 140mph on the bone stock head in a 3100lb car. The stock head works great. A few years back i put a head on with oversized valves and HKS springs. It would misfire over 7k rpm. Put the stock head back on and it was fine. Ran it like that for years. The HKS springs actually had less seat pressure than the stock valve springs and it was causing the valves to float at high RPM. I lost half a season to this issue and I know of someone else who wasted almost a season and a half. IF your going to go the valve/spring/retainer route, I recommend going with dual valve springs. If you want to run the single's then you should definitly shim them to bring up the seat pressure. I would just get the head freshened up and you can shim the stock valve springs if you are worried about float. I ran the stock valve springs without shims and I was fine. My head was pulled off a junk car and all I did was have it decked. If you bent some valves then you can replace them with stainless valves, its only a few dollars more a valve.