Question about PLX Devices

[SJ1g]

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/custome ... =747&page= (http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=19846&cat=747&page=)

Anybody using this on their car?How does it compare with the other systems?..Reason am asking is because a wideband is the next thing am going to be putting on my car...Just wanted to know if anybody recommended this...They also make different models like the M-250,M-300,R-300,R500...You can see then in the second link.What's the difference on them other than the price.
Thank You

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/custome ... hp?cat=747 (http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/home.php?cat=747)

[DSMmaniac_Big_O]

I'm using this same exact set-up posted in that link.
Everything seems to be working fine. It's as simple
as hooking everything up and then turn the car on. No
calibration needed, you can log the W/B and it comes
with alot of wiring(length-wise)And the guage is real thin too.

The only thing I found diffcult we're PLX's instructions, because
they didn't really instruct. They merely pointed out what the
purpose of everything is(i.e, TX wire[transmit], RX wire(recieve)???)
which IMO was leaving some guess work to the user.
I hate wiring but I figured it out eventually.
I want to do a write-up for the PLX forum, but I don't have
a digital camera right now. So whenever I get around to
it, I'll do that.

Also I recommend having another bung welded on your downpipe.
PLX says 24 inches away from turbo, because anything over
1500*F will damage the O2. Where the stock O2 is, the temps
are around the 1500* range so anything below the O2-> downpipe
flange should be ok.(on my 16g)
I have mine about 16~18" from turbo. And just leave
your N/B O2 where it is to keep the ECU happy. On 2g's
just put it where the rear O2 goes.

IF you have a bigger turbo, say Green. I would say that
turbo generates alot more heat than a 16g, so the bigger
the turbo, the farther way.

As far as the different models goes, they're just different packages.
PLX, will send you the same O2 sensor with each package.

I've always like the PLX on paper because of the no calibration
(vs inovative)and the fact that it reads down to 10.(vs the aem http://forum.skill-club.com/images/smilies/default/icon13.gif )
but that's just me....

[BigT]

The new aem reads down to 9:1 i believe. I need to get a new one as i'm stuck with the old aem. :(

[Adriano]

The old AEM ones read to 11.0 and the newer ones reads to 10.0. Why would you need it to read lower that 10.0 ?

Adriano

[SJ1g]

Thanx for the info dsmaniac...ill go with the PLX...I was going to get the AEM but i haven't heard too many good things about it..not saying that is a POS...just trying to find the right one for me.

[Black99X]

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm

Anyone know anything about this one?

[Black99X]

-o

[DSMmaniac_Big_O]

The old AEM ones read to 11.0 and the newer ones reads to 10.0. Why would you need it to read lower that 10.0 ?

Well, some people might want to try, to get the car to
run as stock as posssible and then begin tuning from there.
It doesn't hurt to have it be able to read as low as possible.
http://www.clicksmilies.com/s1106/fragend/confused-smiley-013.gif

PLX(10-20) good bang for the buck, comes with guage
for the best price
zeitronix(9.5-21)good W/B, but cost more because of
other parameter it can monitor
Innovative LM-1(10-20)a little more expensive than PLX,
but require constant re-calibration

just trying to find the right one for me.
Which is what you should do, just research them all.
All I wanted personally was a good W/B that had outputs
that allowed me to log.

The zex and Innovate have some pretty cool accessories
but none of that stuff was for me....

[SJ1g]

PLX it is...thanx again sir.

[LilBeanTSI]

Anyone know if these sensors will last when used with race gas?

[DSMmaniac_Big_O]

According to both PLX and innovate, they won't last long.
Depending on the metal content in the gas...

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/supp ... Manual.pdf (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf)

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/supp ... Manual.pdf (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LM1_Manual.pdf)

Scroll down in the PDF file and it's says about 500-1000hours of use
with leaded gas....

[LilBeanTSI]

Any recommendations on one that works well with leaded race gas?

[DSMmaniac_Big_O]

Any recommendations on one that works well with leaded race gas?
That's a good qustion, and I've looked around but I can't find anything.
So I'll keep digging, because the main problem is how the wideband is made.

[LilBeanTSI]

I know that the NTK sensor was made to work with race gas and the Bosch sensor won't last long. The only wide band I know of that uses that sensor is the FJO. The new NGK wide band can use the NTK sensor but does not ship with it.

[VisionPaintball]

I'm using this same exact set-up posted in that link.
Everything seems to be working fine. It's as simple
as hooking everything up and then turn the car on. No
calibration needed, you can log the W/B and it comes
with alot of wiring(length-wise)And the guage is real thin too.

The only thing I found diffcult we're PLX's instructions, because
they didn't really instruct. They merely pointed out what the
purpose of everything is(i.e, TX wire[transmit], RX wire(recieve)???)
which IMO was leaving some guess work to the user.
I hate wiring but I figured it out eventually.
I want to do a write-up for the PLX forum, but I don't have
a digital camera right now. So whenever I get around to
it, I'll do that.

Also I recommend having another bung welded on your downpipe.
PLX says 24 inches away from turbo, because anything over
1500*F will damage the O2. Where the stock O2 is, the temps
are around the 1500* range so anything below the O2-> downpipe
flange should be ok.(on my 16g)
I have mine about 16~18" from turbo. And just leave
your N/B O2 where it is to keep the ECU happy. On 2g's
just put it where the rear O2 goes.

IF you have a bigger turbo, say Green. I would say that
turbo generates alot more heat than a 16g, so the bigger
the turbo, the farther way.

As far as the different models goes, they're just different packages.
PLX, will send you the same O2 sensor with each package.

I've always like the PLX on paper because of the no calibration
(vs inovative)and the fact that it reads down to 10.(vs the aem http://forum.skill-club.com/images/smilies/default/icon13.gif )
but that's just me....

Do you have to figure out the wiring for these?
Please fill me in.
Thanks

[DSMmaniac_Big_O]

http://www.plxdevices.com/InstallationI ... sGuide.pdf (http://www.plxdevices.com/InstallationInstructions/SM-AFRUsersGuide.pdf)

http://www.plxdevices.com/InstallationI ... sGuide.pdf (http://www.plxdevices.com/InstallationInstructions/DM-5AFRUsersGuide.pdf)

Well, those are the instuctions that come with the
DM-AFR/SM-AFR combo. What do you guys think?
Maybe it's me, but there are quite a few "help on install"
threads on the support forum....http://www.clicksmilies.com/s1106/fragend/confused-smiley-013.gif

Bottom line is, once you get it. The install will be real easy....

[LilBeanTSI]

OK I found that the FJO and Techedge wide bands both use or can use the NTK sesnor. They defiently are more expensive but if your running race gas the NTK sensor will last much longer. I think I'm going to go with the TechEdge Unit with gauge.

http://www.fjoracing.com/products/WBAFR/parts.php

http://wbo2.com/3a1/default.htm

[BigT]

OK I found that the FJO and Techedge wide bands both use or can use the NTK sesnor. They defiently are more expensive but if your running race gas the NTK sensor will last much longer. I think I'm going to go with the TechEdge Unit with gauge.

http://www.fjoracing.com/products/WBAFR/parts.php

http://wbo2.com/3a1/default.htm

Have considered the cost factor? That techedge unit is around 600 without their sensor, but then add the cost of your NTK sensor. Lets say you picked up an AEM unit from somewhere. Rough cost is about 280. Sensors are about 65 dollars. My guestimate is you'll probably kill a sensor every 2 seasons unless you plan on running the car on racegas everyday. So thats 345 for 4 seasons of use and 410 for 6 seasons of use. Now, is that techedge worth it? Not trying to say the AEM is better or whatever, just that the techedge unit is around $600. :shock: You have a haltec so you dont need all that extra mombo jumbo that it does.

[LilBeanTSI]

The Techedge is 519 Australian dollars. That is with everything but the NTK sensor. It works out to be somewhere around 400 U.S. The NTK sensor is $185. The car will see primarily race gas and I feel the cost is well justified since I will definitely kill the Bosch sensors faster than once every 2 seasons. The Bosch sensors are also more sensitive to heat and I would rather pay the money for something that will last.

[BigT]

Hm, i built it on the techedge site and without their sensor and the gauge came out to 600 something. Didnt know it was australian dollars though. :? I have an old AEM gauge and its about 3 years old now. Seen some racegas and its doing well.


Watch me jinx myself.

[Adriano]

Last year I went thru about 3-4 sensor on my AEM gauge. They really go bad when using race gas.

Adriano

[Black99X]

Guys I'm about to buy a wideband and I just cant pick... I can get an aem for $250-
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/custome ... 747&page=1 (http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=17953&cat=747&page=1)

The autometer phantom is just over $300 and matches my gauges and the NGK one just looks cheap.... Help me out here.

[TurboMike]

I can get the Bosch sensors for $65 from a VW dealer. I've also seen posts on dsmlink.com that people have found them for $45.