Any local engine builders?

[Muggus]

Im trying to rebuild a bottom end and have never done it myself. I mostly just want help filing the rings and installed the crank/pistons. Everything else i can take care of. I would try and attempt it myself but dont feel like having to take it apart again if i mess up. Im located in Edison if there anyone who can lend a hand. Thanks

[bergen.DSM]

TTR is near you.

jack merkal is also around you.


check the vendors forum on the turbocarz.com page.

[Muggus]

Yeah but merkel also charges like $400 to install the pistons which should only take a little while. Ill probably just do it myself.

[Big Block DSM]

pat musi, and if you go to merkel make you get in writing what you want done and what parts you droped off. i once give him a motor from pistons to crank. he called me to pick it up and the only thing he had was my block and he didnt know where anything else was.

[Monger]

no engine builder is going to let you "sit in" on a rebuild and give you a discount on labor. get the factory service manual and it tells you everything you need to do. even if you went out and bought all the tools you're still making out doing it yourself. you can get cheapo ring files, ring pliers and piston/ring compressor at pepboys dirt cheap. ok if you only plan to do it a couple times, if you're going to be an engine builder then you'll need to buy more quality stuff that lasts.

[Muggus]

Well when i said local engine builders i didnt really mean a professional. I just meant someone on the board that has done it before successfully and might be able to give me a hand. I know you have obviosly, but i also dont expect you to come all the way here to help me out. Was just hoping there was someone close since the overall shortblock assembly should only take a short time. I put the rings i have with the rebuild kit into the cylinders and it seemed to already have too large of a gap. Might need oversized, maybe the ring wasnt perfectly flat so ill check again. I just dont want to put everything together and realize something is wrong afterwards.

[rsk_wannabe]

Anthony,

When do you plan on putting everything together? As Phil stated, everything you need to know is in the FSM. Putting a short block together is fairly simple. When you stated that the rings seem to have a larger gap than spec, I would be concerned. Did you get the block overbored? If so, obviously, you would need oversized rings.

I bought most of the things needed from Autozone, Advance Auto, etc. I do not have a ring file, but did borrow one of Jack's manual one. [He really is a good guy... to me at least, but that may be since we are closer in age :)]. Besides those items Phil mentioned, you will aso need:
- a good torque wrench,
- plastigauge (I think it was the green, but check the package to make sure)
- gasket spray,
- loctite
- I think there was some bearing lubricant as well,

Things to watch out for (besides the ring gaps)?
- Try to make sure the main caps and rod caps match the block and rods. By that, I mean trying to match up the manufacturing marks.
- If you are using ARP hardware, follow the instructions about torquing.
- If you have not done so, you may consider removing balance shaft with balance shaft removal kit.
- If you did remove balance shaft, try to weigh the piston/rod assemblies individually and match up two sets so that they are as even as possible, then use one pair for the 1&4 pistons and the other to for 2&3.
- Make sure freeze plugs are installed right.
- As long as block is out, go over the bolt holes for the axle carrier bracket with a tap so that you will not have to worry about it when the motor is already dropped into the bay.
- Always use new tensioner, water pump, and belts when you do T-belt.
- Depending on your budget, a new front case and new oil pump may be a good idea as well.

That's about all I can come up with off the top of my head. I am by no means an expert, but that should give you some confidence. If I can do it....

[Monger]

what are you using to measure the ring gaps? are you sure you are measuring them with the ring seated perfectly straight in the bore? use an old piston to push them in straight, if they're crooked it will effect your measurement. take 3 measurements, one at the top, middle, and bottom of the bore...and repeat the process for both the 1st and 2nd rings.

[Muggus]

Thanks guys, this info definitly helps. I used a standard feeler gauge to measure the gap. Unfortunatly i dont have a FSM but my chilton manual said the gap for the 1st ring should be .25-.40mm. I stuck a .406 feeler into it and it was still a little loose, i know it should be somewhat tight when you measure. I did use an old piston to push it in also but ill try again just in case i didnt push far enough to flatten the ring. I have a full rebuild kit so that new pistons, gaskets, front case/pump. Ill have to take a trip to a pro unfortunatly anyways to have the wrist pins pressed in. The block as far as i know is stock bore, stock pistons/rods came out but ill measure to make sure. I have most of the tools except the filer and ring expander. Also i honed the block myself, with a simple stone hone and drill. How important is that cross stitch pattern? I used and up and down motion and guesstimated. I think there suppost to intersect at like a 45* angle or something. Thanks again guys.