No spark; car won't start

[blcknspo0ln]

Okay, after all this time with getting my head semi-rebuilt, new timing belt and components, ARP's and a new HG, I put everything back together and now the car won't start. She turns over but won't ignite... Here's what I've done to diagnose the problem, maybe someone out there can suggest something else?

1. plugs/wires OK
2. timing is right on, double checked 100000 times
3. ignition coil pack OK
4. resistor plug OK
5. definitely getting fuel (all over plugs after cranking)
6. Compression is 165-165-165-160
7. NO SPARK to any cylinder via checking with plug wires
8. new cam position sensor (may be 180* out, but I keep switching it back and forth every step I go)
9. Crankshaft position sensor was broken, but replaced with one from Mitsugraveyard (will replace with new OEM soon).
10. all connectors on harness plugged in

anyone? I can't figure out why this sumbitch won't start..

[awdrst]

Maybe the ecu. I had a ecu cause a no spark issue in my 1g. Also is it getting fuel?

[atc250r]

Ignitor?

[iboostdoyou]

Maybe the ecu. I had a ecu cause a no spark issue in my 1g. Also is it getting fuel?

definitely getting fuel (all over plugs after cranking)

[gtluke]

you probably got another bad CAS

[blcknspo0ln]

i ordered the CAS new from mentor mitsubishi.. so I don't think that's the problem..

possibly the crank sensor?

where is the ignitor located? are you guys talking about the starter?

[blcknspo0ln]

Maybe the ecu. I had a ecu cause a no spark issue in my 1g. Also is it getting fuel?

I doubt it's the ECU.. there was nothing wrong with it before I took her down

[atc250r]

According to CAPS its on the intake next to the coil pack. It's technically called the "ignition transistor". If there is no spark then that certainly COULD be the problem.

John

[blcknspo0ln]

oh yea.. that's #4 I listed.. I swapped it with a known working one and didn't work..

[martin@rx4speed]

I think luke meant the crank sensor. A bad crank sensor could be your culprit.

[blcknspo0ln]

ok ordered a new one from mentormitsubishi today.. should be in on friday.

anyone know if the crank trigger plate was bent .3-.5" away from the crank sensor, would it cause it to not "see" it? I think that may be part of teh problem??

[Phreak]

Just wondering if you have an AFC in the car. If so, does it still turn on when you turn the key to on without starting the car?

[blcknspo0ln]

yup, checked all the settings too

[gtluke]

ok ordered a new one from mentormitsubishi today.. should be in on friday.

anyone know if the crank trigger plate was bent .3-.5" away from the crank sensor, would it cause it to not "see" it? I think that may be part of teh problem??

wtf? the plate should be INSIDE the sensor
if its not, this is your problem.

[MikeL]

ok ordered a new one from mentormitsubishi today.. should be in on friday.

anyone know if the crank trigger plate was bent .3-.5" away from the crank sensor, would it cause it to not "see" it? I think that may be part of teh problem??

wtf? the plate should be INSIDE the sensor
if its not, this is your problem.

what part of "crank" don't you understand?

[gtluke]

ok ordered a new one from mentormitsubishi today.. should be in on friday.

anyone know if the crank trigger plate was bent .3-.5" away from the crank sensor, would it cause it to not "see" it? I think that may be part of teh problem??

wtf? the plate should be INSIDE the sensor
if its not, this is your problem.

what part of "crank" don't you understand?[/quote

i think you are lost mike
crank sensor, plate. plate fits inside sensor with window to determine crank location. if the plate is bent away from the sensor, it won't work.

[MikeL]

the plate is sandwiched between the sprocket and the crank, the sensor is mounted on the case, to me it sounds like you are describing the cam sensor.

[gtluke]

the plate is sandwiched between the sprocket and the crank, the sensor is mounted on the case, to me it sounds like you are describing the cam sensor.

don't you have one of these mike? you ahve to slip the plate into the sensor and then bolt it down. i think you can finagle it while its still bolted down but not at TDC

the sensor reads that the the plate is passing between the 2 sides of the sensor. its INSIDE the slit of the sensor. his is bent and far away aparently, meaning not INSIDE the sensor.

[MikeL]

the plate is sandwiched between the sprocket and the crank, the sensor is mounted on the case, to me it sounds like you are describing the cam sensor.

don't you have one of these mike? you ahve to slip the plate into the sensor and then bolt it down. i think you can finagle it while its still bolted down but not at TDC

the sensor reads that the the plate is passing between the 2 sides of the sensor. its INSIDE the slit of the sensor. his is bent and far away aparently, meaning not INSIDE the sensor.

I guess it just sounds different the way your explaining it, but I do understand how it works, but I pretty much tore my out when my 7bolt died, I never had to "repair" it.

[Monger]

I would'nt bother changing the crank sensor.... just do a 1G cas.

[blcknspo0ln]

now you guys got me all confused.. the crank trigger plate I'm talking about is an actual metal plate that looks kinda like a bowtie that is inbetween the crank sprocket and crankshaft. the crank sensor is a little magnetic sensor that is bolted onto the front case and "sees" the crank trigger plate when it rotates through magnetism..

:confused:

[blcknspo0ln]

I would'nt bother changing the crank sensor.... just do a 1G cas.

too late.. i ordered the new part already.. if not, i probably will consider this

[gtluke]

now you guys got me all confused.. the crank trigger plate I'm talking about is an actual metal plate that looks kinda like a bowtie that is inbetween the crank sprocket and crankshaft. the crank sensor is a little magnetic sensor that is bolted onto the front case and "sees" the crank trigger plate when it rotates through magnetism..

:confused:

yes. and you are saying the plate is bent away from the sensor

[Monger]

i dont recall being able to take that sensor out without taking off the timing belt...I dont think it can be done. it takes 20 minutes to do a 1G cas, 3-4 hours to do a timing belt job. do the math, I dont care how much that sensor cost its not worth the time to take the belt off.

[blcknspo0ln]

i dont recall being able to take that sensor out without taking off the timing belt...I dont think it can be done. it takes 20 minutes to do a 1G cas, 3-4 hours to do a timing belt job. do the math, I dont care how much that sensor cost its not worth the time to take the belt off.

I don't think you have to take off the belt.. I'll report back tonight because I received my new OEM one yesterday in the mail..

wish me luck guys

[blcknspo0ln]

well.. car started tonight, but the weird thing is the idle was very lumpy and the car was misfiring a lot.. I then switched the cylinder inside the Cam-AS 180* and it had no effect :?:

either way, i had the car on for a total of maybe 30 seconds, because of some seriously loud ticking coming from the lower timing belt area..

more tomorrow..

*edit* btw, I can see where you'd say that the crank-AS is nearly impossible to take off without taking hte belt off, but I managed to find an area where I could shove the harness plug through.. suffice to say the new OEM is in there now 8)

[Monger]

well if you muscled it in there without taking the belt off that might be part of your problem....that clicking sound you hear might be the trigger plate eating up your brand new sensor. they really need to be lined up perfectly so nothing hits when the crank is rotating. that would cause a misfire, and eventually the car wont run. those sensors are pretty fragile to begin with, thats why I recommend the 1G cas.

[blcknspo0ln]

well if you muscled it in there without taking the belt off that might be part of your problem....that clicking sound you hear might be the trigger plate eating up your brand new sensor. they really need to be lined up perfectly so nothing hits when the crank is rotating. that would cause a misfire, and eventually the car wont run. those sensors are pretty fragile to begin with, thats why I recommend the 1G cas.

I"ll agree with that.. the problem lies where I took of the balance belt a while back.. I ended up bending one of the "fins" of the trigger plate and now it's hitting the balance belt and making A LOT of noise.. the car has been on for a total about 2 minutes now and I don't think I'll try to turn her on again until I get a new crank trigger plate in there and redo the timing.

[Monger]

if its bent enough to smack your b-shaft belt, its bent enough to smack your crank sensor too :shock: