Rocketpack intake mani, Ver. 2

[91tsiguy]

I just finished my latest creation up today and here it is:

http://www.philadelphiadsm.com/forum/files/brcintakefrontside_700w.jpg
http://www.philadelphiadsm.com/forum/files/brcintakebackside_700w.jpg
http://www.philadelphiadsm.com/forum/files/brcintakeleftside_700w.jpg
http://www.philadelphiadsm.com/forum/files/brcintakevelocitystacks_700w.jpg


It's actually sold and won't be going on my car, although I plan to make another one identical to this later on when I get more supplies in.

[Muggus]

Looks good. I hear youv been cooking up a nice tubular exhaust mani as well. Iv been looking for something good for my new turbo, let me know when its done. Im might want to buy it and see what kind of power i can make with it. Need something good keep the turbo spooled.

[91tsiguy]

Once I get some fittings to hook up my new water cooled tig torch, I should be able to finish that manifold. There's a spot on a runner to the inside of the collector I can't get to with the regular torch so I had to go out and buy more "toys" to finish it. It's coming out pretty decent for my first try, but now I know where I can improve or change things for the next one. Once it's done it'll be for sale at a get-out-the-door quick kinda price, especially compared to the other tubular manifolds out there right now. :wink:

[Muggus]

Oh maybe ill wait till number 2 then.

[90goldtsiawd]

Once I get some fittings to hook up my new water cooled tig torch, I should be able to finish that manifold. There's a spot on a runner to the inside of the collector I can't get to with the regular torch so I had to go out and buy more "toys" to finish it. It's coming out pretty decent for my first try, but now I know where I can improve or change things for the next one. Once it's done it'll be for sale at a get-out-the-door quick kinda price, especially compared to the other tubular manifolds out there right now. :wink:

We'll see how much wompum I have layin around Bent... I mean Brent! :lol: 8) :twisted:

[iboostdoyou]

is this manifold crafted from nate's "metal dong"? :lol:
http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/natesmetaldong.gif

[rotorocker]

Hahahaha. That pic is funny as hell

[91tsiguy]

is this manifold crafted from nate's "metal dong"? :lol:


Yes, it was actually forged from his "little one"

[blcknspo0ln]

LMFAO.

that made my night.. hahahaha

[Nate Crisman]

Now we know why my wife's child birth labor was so fast, easy, and painless. :wink:

[gtluke]

Now we know why my wife's child birth labor was so fast, easy, and painless. :wink:

hotdog down a hallway?

[90goldtsiawd]

Now we know why my wife's child birth labor was so fast, easy, and painless. :wink:

hotdog down a hallway?

:shock: :lol: :lol: :lol: Luke's gettin an ear full from Jen next time he comes around! ahahahahaha

[Dstarmotuner]

i too would be intrested in a tubular manifold a nd a intake main if the price is good lmk when u make sum.

[91tsiguy]

If I have a deposit, I'll definitely make more. I might have to change things just a bit to get the 91-94 throttle bodies to fit keeping the throttle position sensore angled in the stock way. This particular manifold was going to be used with a 1990 TB, but a 91-94 would work by flipping the TPS around (possibly needing the wires lengthened.

[helite99]

looks good brent

[Bean]

Nice work Brent!

[Nate Crisman]

Nice work Brent!


Think my metal bean pole is bigger? 8)

[Bean]

LOL!! I don't know how you drive with that thing Nate......or maybe thats your secret. It holds the wheel and you shift with two hands. :lol: :D

[Utah Joe]

looks good bent, its nice to see that you are really getting good with that tig. Man nate, could you imagine the awsome shit we could have done with the grassroots car if we had brents welding skills at the time.........custom exaust manifold - $20, hahahahaha

[Big Block DSM]

how much are you selling the manifolds for ?

[91tsiguy]

Plans actually changed for making more of these now. I'd first have to 1) find another supplier for the flanges, and 2) buy a bigger welder than the one I currently have just so I can finish one part of them that I can't on mine. If I stumble across 2 grand or so, I might be back in business.

[Nate Crisman]

looks good bent, its nice to see that you are really getting good with that tig. Man nate, could you imagine the awsome shit we could have done with the grassroots car if we had brents welding skills at the time.........custom exaust manifold - $20, hahahahaha


yeah no shit. Unfortunatly custom intake/exhaust manifolds, nicer IC pipes, and the like probobly would have made the car all of a tenth faster. :roll: But it certainly would have gotten us back the points in the carshow that sent us from 2nd to 5th place.

[91tsiguy]

Exhaust manifold is finally done. I know a few of you who stopped by the shop and saw it said they'd may be interested in it. If you still are, PM me.

[Nate Crisman]

Exhaust manifold is finally done. I know a few of you who stopped by the shop and saw it said they'd may be interested in it. If you still are, PM me.

I suggest someone buy this thing. Brent must have like 60 hours into it, your would be paying less for the labor than minimum wage. Hows it feel to work for $4/hr brent? :roll:

[GVR4]

Exhaust manifold is finally done. I know a few of you who stopped by the shop and saw it said they'd may be interested in it. If you still are, PM me.
PICS PLEASE !!!

[91tsiguy]

PM sent.

[Muggus]

Send me some pics too. Is it a garret flange or mitsu? Thanks

[91tsiguy]

It's flanged for a T3 mani. All stainless except for the head flange which is mild steel but painted with high temp paint.

[gtluke]

when are you doing mine god dammit?

[91tsiguy]

When you show me the money. :D

[Nate Crisman]

Luke: just wave $50 in front of him. That should be good for like 10-15 hours to get started :lol: he can prep the flanges and mock it up in that timeframe.

[gtluke]

i just need this passenger side header
my driver side is exactly the same as his
and i can do the crossover pipe as long as brent welds me in the 2.5" v band at the bottom of that collector on the passenger side header.
then the downpipe. which i have other options than that kit since i have coilovers and you can go between the A-arm and body like mick did. but this way is fine too.
but i want it all done really nice so i can have it swain coated and it doesn't look like poopy.

i told brent that i can drop the car off at his house and he can do it in his spare time.

I HAVE MONEY

i'm willing to pay B&G for thier kit that i don't really like and has a small annoyingly placed downpipe.
I WILL PAY BRENT

[gtluke]

forgot pic
http://saleen.v8mustang.com/pics/car/coupe/IMG_0118.JPG

[90goldtsiawd]

i told brent that i can drop the car off at his house and he can do it in his spare time.

Brent as soon as Luke hands you his keys and pulls outta the driveway you better call me immediately!!! JOY RIDE! ahahahahaha :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

[gtluke]

brent got in my car and started it once, he refused to drive away. i told him if he could figure out how to start it, he could drive it. he did figure it out (with some hints) but chickened out.

i drove brents 2.4 around one day and didn't tell him :)

[90goldtsiawd]

I believe it. lol Probably beat up mine couple times too. It only sat at the shop for like a year... :roll: If I get the chance to drive your car I won't chicken out! :wink:

[gtluke]

you would have to figure out how to start it first.

utah drove it 2 years ago before the turbo

[martin@rx4speed]

I am interested in pics as well. PM me some pics and price. Thanks.

[Utah Joe]

driving it without the turbo was amazingly similar to driving my 67. Except that a tremec shift about 1000 times better than a 40 year old top-loader 4 speed. Driving in it with the turbo on was amazingly similar to lying on your back and having someone drop a refridgerator on your chest. Kingda Ka at great adventure has got nothing on luke's car for a scary ride.

[gtluke]

yeah my 351 was almost scarey how similar it was to your 390. i swear to god the dyno graphs must be within 3% of each other the whole time.
they even sounded exactly the same. really really strange.

my next trans is going to be a toploader. as soon as i win the lottery. i need a g-force toploader. there arn't that many choices on normally shifted transmissions you can drive on the street and that can hold 1,000 hp. so its either a $6,000 4 speed or a $6,000 richmond 6 speed.

[91tsiguy]

Luke, I would love to make you stuff, but I suppose I mis-spoke before. I actually need time more than money right now, plus all my equipment is over at DS so it'd do no good if your car was at my house waiting for work. My stuff may end up coming back here soon though, but I don't know that for sure yet. (just got back from an interview)

As for taking out my car, I can pretty much guess it was the day I left it there for Nate to work on the wheel studs and then race it that night/weekend. It's probably just as slow now (on the trailer) as it was then. :P

Kris, no one took your car out for joy rides for fear of angry mosquito's and their revenge. We would be able to smoke screen them from behind, but the forces were down on the front and sides.

As for the exhaust mani pics, I might as well put the link up in here. I'm pretty critical on myself with my work so I was hesitant at first of doing this--mainly if I feel something isn't 100% perfect to me then I get iffy. With this manifold I was just a little upset on how some of the welds turned out a little squirrely rather than 1)my previous work and 2)what I wish could be robotically tig welded, full-race.com quality. This was my first time working with pipe and different settings with the pulser feature so that's where most of my inconsistancy had come from. Taking actual tig courses at my local tech school in the evenings is helping out my next approach at this now.

I used the GT35R from the race Talon to figure out where to position the turbine inlet flange, made a quick jig with those measurements, and went from there. As easy as it would have been to just make a jig off of the Shearer manifold, I opted not to as well as opting to not copy that runner design. (however after tacking this together I did stumble across his newer evo manifold runner design which was fairly familiar. Ah well, you can only build a wheel so many ways) The other thing I noticed with his manifold was that the T3 flange sat a little off from being perpendicular with the head flange as well as parallel so I wanted to make sure mine was. One thing I did do was use his o2 housing on the turbo so that way I could position it's downpipe flange in the exact location of where a stock dp would be.

The only thing that is bothering me right now is that I didn't take into account of how high the runners are positioned in relation to the hood of the vehicle. Evo's tend to have quite a bit more room here versus DSMs. Looking in comparison to the Pacesetter header on the parts car at the shop right now shows that header brushed against the insulation slightly and this one I built is a bit taller than that one. I believe it will fit a stock hood with the metal supports right above it cut out, or an aftermarket hood like Frank's Fiberglass hoods. If there is a next one, the collector will be shortened up to accomodate for this and maybe change around the runners somewhat. On the topic of runners, this was not planned out to be a "true" equal length manifold. For the first one I wanted to just see how hard it actually was to build one of these, lay out each runner to fit with one another, and see what costs and time was involved to see if it's worth it to make more. After all of that, I must say hats off to guys like Ron and I can see how there is the delay for his products like this.

So why do I want to sell it so soon? First, I want to recoupe the money and time invested into it. I used my credit card to buy supplies and new equipment to build this. Second, I have no idea what turbo I'll be running yet next summer (if the car is even close to done by then) so having this sit around in the meantime does no good for me. Third, someone's gotta put down some numbers on this and I know it won't be me any time soon. :P

Anyway, enough of me rambling on. Here's a directory of pics:
http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/im ... haustmani/ (http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/images/customfab/exhaustmani/)

[gtluke]

brent, what if i give you the head flange, and t4 and collector. could you put 2" pieces of 1 5/8 inside the header flange? and weld the collector to the t-4 flange?
then i could tack together the pipes at my house in the correct pattern and fit, and then you could just tig together the pipes so it looks better than a splatter-mig.

my goal for this year is to make it more streetable. run the wastegate back in, and run dual 3" exhaust out of the back of the car if i can. i want it quieter. then i need to spend a few hours on the dyno with nate and get the damn thing tuned in.

[gtluke]

btw your manifold looks sexy

[91tsiguy]

That would be the best method for me to work on it right now so I would definitely be up for that.

[gtluke]

i love you 91tsiguy!
haha
i'll get some flanges
do you guys have any t4 flanges laying around before i buy one?
know a cheap place to get v-band setups?

[rick]

Looks pretty good. I know Bean has been playing around with some manifold setups for the Evo\DSM\Honda's. But like he agreed with me its really hard to lay a bead better than a robot but some of you guys come pretty dam close.

[gtluke]

alright brent. i just ordered like $300 worth of stainless shit. you better not bitch out on me.
my car is going in the garage this weekend to start the dismantleing

actually i'm just doing my front suspension now, i've had the parts for over a year but i'm finally getting a chance to do it now. but when i swap out my engine cradle i'm moving the engine back an inch or two so the turbo kit isn't going to fit correctly. so instead of fixing it, i'll just do it over now while i have the chance.

[MikeL]

i love you 91tsiguy!
haha
i'll get some flanges
do you guys have any t4 flanges laying around before i buy one?
know a cheap place to get v-band setups?

Not sure how cheap you are looking for, but these guys have a lot of good fab parts.

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merch ... y_Code=FLG (http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=tp&Category_Code=FLG)

[gtluke]

i abuse my admin status and squeeze parts from the sponsors.
most of the stuff i'm getting is hand built.
i'm just trying to find a 1/2" SS t-4 flange and 1/2" SS exhaust manifold flange.
i got a DIY header build kit in 1 5/8" SS (just the pipes), a foot of 3" SS for the merge/collector, 2 2.5" SS v-band setups CHA CHING, 2 2.5" SS J pipes, and an 8" SS flex section.

i'm waiting on some responses for the flanges i'm looking for.

i'll browse that link you gave me thanks
-luke-

[91tsiguy]

Luke, I have a bunch of bookmarked sites I can send you to browse through for parts. For v-band clamp assemblies, the cheapest I've seen that are full stainless are the Vibrants. Jegs and Summet sell assemblies with stainless clamps but mild steel flanges. I'll see if I can copy and paste my bookmarks to a PM to you, but either way I can help you out with suppliers if the parts can't be gotten through DS first.

[gtluke]

yeah but i want nice ones. not those shitty ones. i got a pair that i know are decent.
thanks for the links

[lithium]

L
As for the exhaust mani pics, I might as well put the link up in here. I'm pretty critical on myself with my work so I was hesitant at first of doing this--mainly if I feel something isn't 100% perfect to me then I get iffy. With this manifold I was just a little upset on how some of the welds turned out a little squirrely rather than 1)my previous work and 2)what I wish could be robotically tig welded, full-race.com quality. This was my first time working with pipe and different settings with the pulser feature so that's where most of my inconsistancy had come from. Taking actual tig courses at my local tech school in the evenings is helping out my next approach at this now.

I used the GT35R from the race Talon to figure out where to position the turbine inlet flange, made a quick jig with those measurements, and went from there. As easy as it would have been to just make a jig off of the Shearer manifold, I opted not to as well as opting to not copy that runner design. (however after tacking this together I did stumble across his newer evo manifold runner design which was fairly familiar. Ah well, you can only build a wheel so many ways) The other thing I noticed with his manifold was that the T3 flange sat a little off from being perpendicular with the head flange as well as parallel so I wanted to make sure mine was. One thing I did do was use his o2 housing on the turbo so that way I could position it's downpipe flange in the exact location of where a stock dp would be.

The only thing that is bothering me right now is that I didn't take into account of how high the runners are positioned in relation to the hood of the vehicle. Evo's tend to have quite a bit more room here versus DSMs. Looking in comparison to the Pacesetter header on the parts car at the shop right now shows that header brushed against the insulation slightly and this one I built is a bit taller than that one. I believe it will fit a stock hood with the metal supports right above it cut out, or an aftermarket hood like Frank's Fiberglass hoods. If there is a next one, the collector will be shortened up to accomodate for this and maybe change around the runners somewhat. On the topic of runners, this was not planned out to be a "true" equal length manifold. For the first one I wanted to just see how hard it actually was to build one of these, lay out each runner to fit with one another, and see what costs and time was involved to see if it's worth it to make more. After all of that, I must say hats off to guys like Ron and I can see how there is the delay for his products like this.

So why do I want to sell it so soon? First, I want to recoupe the money and time invested into it. I used my credit card to buy supplies and new equipment to build this. Second, I have no idea what turbo I'll be running yet next summer (if the car is even close to done by then) so having this sit around in the meantime does no good for me. Third, someone's gotta put down some numbers on this and I know it won't be me any time soon. :P


looks like you're using way too big tungsten, and therefore probably too much heat. almost looks like you're welding aluminum there. stainless is an entirely different game, in which you can produce much narrower welds, which require less heat, and less filler. either that, or you need to cut better if that's all filling a gap, but that's not what it looks like to me. i just built my first manifold a few weeks ago, didn't come out as good as I would've liked either.

[91tsiguy]

Tungsten was appropriate, 3/32" with 25cfm gas, also back purging too. Amps were set at 90 but I didn't go to the floor with the pedal of course. There were few if any gaps as I held each piece against the other when tacking. I think most of the problem was using the pulser set at the wrong rate, varying the pedal depression too much, as well as dipping the filler rod. I'm learning with aluminum that's exactly what you want to do (dip and actually "feed"), but with steel keep the rod right next to the puddle and let it suck it in as you move along at a steady pace keeping the width constant. For one, you don't have to worry about contamination by doing it this way but it's going to deliver more of a stick-welding look to the bead rather than stacked dimes. Most people want the latter look though for the bling factor. :?

[lithium]

Tungsten was appropriate, 3/32" with 25cfm gas, also back purging too. Amps were set at 90 but I didn't go to the floor with the pedal of course. There were few if any gaps as I held each piece against the other when tacking. I think most of the problem was using the pulser set at the wrong rate, varying the pedal depression too much, as well as dipping the filler rod. I'm learning with aluminum that's exactly what you want to do (dip and actually "feed"), but with steel keep the rod right next to the puddle and let it suck it in as you move along at a steady pace keeping the width constant. For one, you don't have to worry about contamination by doing it this way but it's going to deliver more of a stick-welding look to the bead rather than stacked dimes. Most people want the latter look though for the bling factor. :?

This isn't really true (at least not from what I've been taught). The PROPER way to weld steel, is to dip the rod into the pool. And 3/32 is too big, you want 1/16 for that low of an amperage. I'll admit, i did the whole drag the filler in front of the weld thing with my manifold in a few places too, but that's not the right way to get x-ray quality, good looking welds (at least as I was taught by a very experienced welder). You want to start the pool, move forward, pull back, add filler as needed into front of pool, and then melt the filler into the weld. I'm not expert, by any means when it comes to welding, but I'm learning from a professional welder for all the huge processing plants in north jersey (ie: yoohoo, international fragrance, etc). I'm not really trying to knock your manifold, either, sometimes I come off harsh because I like to share useful knowledge when I feel someone deserves to know it. I'm sure you could share some tips with me as well in the future, that's all, especially when it comes to learning aluminum (although my neighbor builds aluminum boats for the coast guard and shit, so I have an awesome resource there when I'm ready). I also have to take into account that I'm using an inverter, as opposed to a transformer, which I hear can produce entire different "looking" welds.